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The Double wall Liner must only be fitted the right way up and to be fitted in one continuous un-jointed length to guarantee correct application. Ensure the flue gas rise in the direction of the arrows marked on the outside of the liner and point skywards. If The liner is not marked the correct way up can be determined from the diagram opposite.
2. Having Determined the length required. Lower the Liner into the chimney from the top, using the draw Cone and Cord to guide the liner into position, then remove the cone. This operation is more easily accomplished with two people. In the event of not having a cone for the liner, cut a round disc of plywood or similar that will fit inside your liner, drill a hole in the centre two attach a rope or draw cord, fit this circle a couple of inches (50 mm) down the liner end, and temporarily fix with tacks or self tapping screws.
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3. The top of the liner must extend 3" (80 mm) above the top the top plate and clamp.
4. Support the bottom of the inside the chimney with a bottom support bracket and firmly secure to the masonry with suitable fixings.
5. Where the liner serves an appliance discharging into a builders opening, connect and seal the bottom of the liner into the Gather unit, which should be located above the fireplace lintel. All edges of the gather must be sealed with fire cement or similar refractory cement, so flue gasses can not pass into the cavity between the old flue way and the new liner.
6. Where the liner servers a freestanding appliance, use a register plate (preferably a cement fibre type of at least 12 mm) to close off the bottom of the chimney void. Connect and seal the edges of the register plate to the flue pipe using a stainless steel MA Adaptor, and connect the MA Adaptor to a length of appropriate flue pipe. (It is recommended on most appliances that a 1000 mm length be used before the MA Adaptor). The flue pipe passes through the Cement Fibre register plate to the MA cut a very snug hole there must be little of no gap between the flue pipe and the register board. I have found often if fire cement is used it tends to fall out after a period of time with the continual expansion & contraction of the flue pipe. (NB Don't Forget you must provide adequate flue chimney cleaning access.
7. Terminate to top of your chimney with an appropriate rain cap and preferably a cowl with a bird guard mesh attached. The top of the chimney must be "parged" off with mortar slop and cover the top plate clamp etc. then fill the inside with mortar as in the diagram.
3 or 4 20 mm ventilation holes must be provided immediately under the top plate to allow the flue to "sweat" any moisture out of the stack, and I recommend the fitting of ordinary garden hose protruding approximately 1" (25 mm) and cut at a slight angle to form a drip.
Insulation Do I or Don't I?? In Larger Chimney voids, or Chimneys that are on outside walls, and with appliances burning predominately wood, I personally would back fill the void with appropriate insulation material. ("Leaka" "Vermiculite granules", or indeed wrap the liner with "rock wool blanket", BUT never fibre glass.
10. Finally The connection from the appliance to the "MA Adaptor" and the beginning of the liner should be made in good quality Stainless Steel flue pipe Minimum of 1.00 mm wall thickness and grade 316, or good quality vitreous enamel flue pipe.
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